Think while you drink: Clarksburg
By Zach Turner, Spring 2021
Nestled amid the serpentine meanderings of the Sacramento river delta, between Napa to the West and Sacramento to the East, lies one of California’s still best kept wine secrets. Clarksburg has long been an agricultural force with its fertile, alluvial loam soils, and its close proximity to a seemingly endless supply of fresh water. Merritt Island, the AVA from where we source our Chenin Blanc, sits in the heart of the Clarksburg AVA. Both AVAs produce world class wine grapes, but do so only through a unique partnership forged over more than a century between the locals and the land.Clarksburg was settled by rugged pioneer farmers who worked the land to live. Merritt Island was named after one of them, Ezekiel Merritt, a fearless, tough-guy type who later lead the Bear Flag Revolt. That fight won California its independence from Mexico, and introduced the new republic to its future state flag. Grit was paramount — at an elevation of 10 feet above sea level, heavy rain could swell the Sacramento River and flood the region, devastating crops and livelihoods.
In the late 1800’s the government formed the Bureau of Reclamation, which allowed people to reclaim land deemed ruined by flooding. If someone could make the land again suitable for farming, they would own it. The prominent Holland Land Company used their resources to improve existing levees. They extracted silt from the delta riverbed and built it onto the levees. This increased the capacity of the surrounding waterways and drastically reduced the likelihood of future flooding. Then they sold parcels of the newly reclaimed land to ambitious young farmers.
That’s how the Wilson family came to buy their land in Clarksburg in 1921. 50 years later they planted their first fine wine grapes. In 2004, when Chris was working at Williams Selyem, he became friends with 4th generation Wilson family member, David Ogilvie. David is continuing his family’s tradition today – he lives on Merritt Island, grows our Chenin Blanc grapes, and keeps an eye on the water table for us and his community. We’re excited to release our newest vintage of Merritt Island Chenin Blanc, the 2020, to you this month.
In 1984 Clarksburg received its official designation as a distinguished American Viticultural Area. Grapes grow so well there now that many different varietals call it home. There is plenty of moisture, of course, combined with lots of heat and sunshine. Grape maturation is tempered and the growing season extended by the cool delta breeze and the fog that blows up from the San Francisco Bay. This slow and steady maturation helps develop the Chenin’s nice acidity, rich mouthfeel, and beautiful aromatics. We hope you enjoy it as much as we do!